Baldhead Island, NC

9 October 2014

Wilmington was very nice, we had dinner at the Black Sea Mediterranean Grill. We met Cere, the owner, he helped us with our meal and wine selection. Great assorted platter appetizer, Robin had Kofta and I lamb, dessert was a fried philo with a honey sauce a la mode, with Turkish coffee. If you like coffee and not had Turkish coffee you’re missing something, it makes expresso taste like decafe.

Wednesday morning we visited the Battleship North Carolina. I have a huge respect for the men and women who fought in WWII. The ship is really impressive, 9 16” guns, 20 5” guns, 60 40mm’s, and 53 70 cals. A 16” gun can fire a 2100 lb explosive round 21 miles with rifle accuracy. You can go into many spaces below decks and get a feel for what life was like. You can also climb in the 16” gun mounts, it is amazing how much technology was available in the early 1940’s and the amount it took to fire these guns.

30 knots, 166 gals/mile, carries 2 million gallons 

The breach of a 16" gun, the bags are 6 powder bags loaded behind the shell

We left Wilmington around 1200 and with a strong tide pushing us, we averaged ~ 6.5 knots to Baldhead Island on Cape Fear. Baldhead Island is an exclusive community of beautiful beach homes. The shoals extend off shore 20-30 miles making passage from the north hazardous. We met a group of guys last night, Andy Swain, his dad Glenn, Mark, and about 4 others. They own vacation homes here but were here for a guys weekend. They were all gentlemen even though drinking and having fun, not one foul word. “Toad” (Andy, his father named him that after he wrecked his first car) was most gracious, he lent us a golf cart so we could tour the island and his membership card to the “Shoals Club” so we could enjoy a lunch or dinner. He even told us to put the tab on his account, (of course we didn’t) what friendly warm people. 

Frying Pan Shoals

Only golf carts on the island, the road thru the woods like a canopy

The Shoals Club

Nice house

another nice house

Little Munchkin garages for the golf carts

Sunset

Maybe an off shore sail tomorrow to Little River Inlet, just North of Myrtle Beach.

Wilmington, NC

7 October 2014

We had a quiet night anchored in Wrightsville Beach. We left early to take a side trip to Wilmington, we motored downhill from Wrightsville then uphill the 12 miles to Wilmington. The tide in this area runs at about 2-3 knots, it was running out when we entered the Cape River at 1000 and is still running out hard at 1700. It makes tying to a lay along floating dock interesting as the bow is currently pointed into the current and the boat wants to wander back and forth.

Wilmington is a pretty town, there must be a college near by as there are many bars, restaurants and clubs. We walked the town this afternoon, there are numerous shops, (thank goodness we are on a sailboat with little space), and beautiful architecture and old homes.

The Battleship North Carolina is berthed here and we hope to visit it tomorrow, it requires a taxi ride, as it is on the other side of the river.

I need to mention again, if I didn’t before, our mast is 62.5 feet from the water, most bridges are at least 65 feet high at mean high tide. If not they are lift, swing, or bascule bridges. A bascule bridge lifts from one side, a lift bridge lifts straight up from both sides and a swing bridge pivots in the middle. Most of the fixed 65’ bridges have a marker on a bridge pile that will tell you the height from the water. We did pass under one bridge in Morehead City where the marker said the bridge height at that particular tide was 63 feet. As we passed under a fisherman held his hands apart about 6 inches indicating our clearance. A Pucker Moment.

I thought a strange marker with out enough information

OK thank goodness for Google…

Apparently William Houston was appointed Stamp Master by Great Britain in 1765 to collect taxes from the colonies to defray Britain’s National debt. It wasn’t taken very kindly by the colonists and good old William was forced to write a resignation letter by the townspeople.  Safety Committees were formed and became a shadow government taking control away from the royal officials at the start of the American Revolution. Who would have known by this marker?

Spanish Moss

Lift Bridge approaching Wilmington

Wrightsville Beach

6 October 2014

Happy Birthday to my son Nicholas!!!

We left Swansboro this morning at 0815 and MOTORED (11 hours) all blessed day down to Wrightsville Beach. 

The ICW carried us through USMC Camp Lejeune. This area is sometimes closed for target practice and there is evidence of shot up armor vehicles along the shore. In the middle of this range we ran aground, the first time. 

The trip took us along the Topsail Sound, beautiful homes but a very narrow channel. You can be in 12 feet of water and suddenly find yourself in 3. Ran aground twice more, not my favorite part of the trip so far. Anywhere there is a cut or channel from the ocean on your port side you have to be careful of shoaling. Thankfully we were on the downside of the tide most of the day.

This part of the trip also had 4 bridges. Some open on the hour and some every half hour. For a boat that makes 5-7 knots it is rarely possible to make the next opening. Once we had to wait for 40 minutes and another we got there 5 minutes after the last opening and had to circle for 55 minutes until the next opening.

We are anchored in Banks Channel in Wrightsville for the night. We met the harbor nazi when we tried to anchor in a crowded anchorage. The nazi’s started waving and shouting screaming “you’re to close” before we even got settled in. Needless to say we moved to a quieter area.

Maybe a side trip to Wilmington, NC tomorrow.

As Robin was preparing a very nice meal I was thinking of a dinner we had with a lovely family before we left Bowleys. I am grateful to the head of the family, he has taught me a lot in the short time I have known him. His wife is a lovely and talented woman. The young lady who sat across from me was a bit shy and the one to my right was an engaging conversationalist. Thank you all for a lovely evening. 

Camp Lejeune

Narrow channel

Beautiful homes all along the way. Some of them were boarded up for the winter

Swing bridge

ICW Mile Marker

Lawn ornament

Neighbors response

Another swing Bridge

Swansboro, NC

6 October 2014

Well we stayed in Lookout Bight a few days longer than we expected. The Bight is normally a well protected anchorage except when the wind blows from the northwest, it did, all night long finally reaching about 30 knots around 2AM. Most boat captains were up checking their anchors, some pulled and had to reset. Ours held but resulted in little sleep. The next morning was breezy but we decided to head out. 

The seas were high, very high. It is a bit disconcerting to see half of a 38’, 20,000 lb boat out of the water as we crest a wave and surf down looking up at the crest of the next wave, especially if you are on the boat. We could not go quite in the direction we wanted, we had to attack the waves at an angle of about 45 degrees. After 30 minutes we decided to turn back, new problem. How to turn in 10-12 foot seas without having one hit us abeam. We realized the big ones came in sets of 3’s followed by some smaller ones. The captain timed it perfectly, (luckily, fortunately), and we headed back to the Bight. We spent the day, met Philip, a local, and waited for the winds to subside. That night was a repeat of the night before, more wind, over 30 knots and more wake less hours watching the anchor. 

Sunday the wind changed direction and subsided to about 15 knots. Robin “As we depart the hook of Cape Lookout Bight, it’s hard to believe how rough the waters were the past two nights but yet how protected the hook appeared. The winds are off shore at 15 and we’re sailing again. The seas are favorable this morning, finally. It feels pleasant to have the wind in my face… the 10-12 foot seas have subsided.”

Once back inside and on the ICW again we motored all day in Bogue Sound, a broad expanse of water similar to Assawoman Bay behind Ocean City. There is only one channel, about 10-12 foot deep and about 30 yards wide. It requires constant attention to stay in the middle. The current reminds me of one of my father’s favorite jokes about walking to school in the snow and it was uphill both ways. The tide/current was against us as we came in from the ocean and the next 30 miles in the sound. The current runs at about 2-3 knots. When your boat only goes 6-7 it is significant.

We spent the night in Swansboro, a pleasant town with many shops and restaurants. We reprovisioned at the “Piggly Wiggly”.

Off this morning to Wrightsville Beach.

The seafood festival at Morehead City. The shrimp boats all decorated.

Cape Lookout Bight

3 October 2014

We did some ocean sailing today, we sailed from Morehead City to Cape Lookout Bight. Sailing was great with schools of dolphin everywhere.

Cape Lookout is a large hook that protects a lovely bay from all directions. The water is pretty clear and deep. There are about 8 boats anchored here. We’ve launched the dink and are exploring the shoreline. There are waterman using nets to catch some small fish, spot. Last night a skiff was here after dark with 2 large underwater lights and two guys standing on the bow with gigs spearing flounder in the lights.

Today is is overcast with a promise of afternoon sun. 

The dink in yesterdays pictures belongs to the catamaran in todays. There is not much room for anything else on the boat. The story, according to Dan, is the guy arrived a few years ago and he needed to repair his diesel. He’s taking classes to learn how to fix diesels, must be a long class or he’s a slow learner as the motor has been in Dan’s brothers garage for three years.

Ocean Sailing and loving life!

Sunset at Cape Lookout Bight

Sunrise at Cape Lookout Bight

Cape Lookout Light
It shows black diamonds when viewed from North or South
and white diamonds when viewed from East and West

Cape Beach

Morehead City, NC

2 October 2014

We left Oriental at 1045 yesterday morning and cruised a lovely canal to Morehead City. This is a pretty town with more friendly people. We’ve met Dan and Sue on a Grand Banks trawler. Dan was born here but lived most of his life in New England. He has shared with us his knowledge of the area and places to eat (Ruddy Duck).

We went walking, looking for a grocery for some vegetables. We passed a man walking his dog Polly, a golden doodle, and asked where we might find a store. He offered to drive us, said he needed to pickup some dog food. His name is Quincy and owns a dental lab here, Stimpson Dental Lab, Inc. He was friendly and we shared stories of our past. 

We found a great olive oil/balsamic vinegar store and intend to visit it today. We also found a kitchen gourmet shop and need to replace a French Press that committed suicide.

Stopped at Ace Marine Rigging and Supply and bought 2 6gal. water jugs for $22 ea., $40 everywhere else we found them. If you need it on the way down, they have it. 

They are having their annual Seafood Festival this weekend but we intend to anchor up in a bight behind Cape Lookout, a little ocean sailing today. We understand the cape is gorgeous and tha sea turtles swim up to your anchored boat. We will let you know…

For John Platts

Beautiful homes on the Adams Creek Canal

Mile Marker "200" on the ICW only 550 to go!

Dan and Sue's Grand Banks Trawler

Bellatrix

This is a story I'll share later

The Flare of a Carolina Sportsfish

Oriental, NC

30 September 2014

Sailed from Ocracoke to Oriental yesterday. We had a great day under sail, wind 10 - 12 knots, boat speed averaging 5.5 - 6 knots. We watched 2 shrimp trawlers for a while, an interesting operation.

Shrimp Trawlers working

We arrived in Oriental around 1500 and decided to stay at Sailcraft Marina, $20 a night no matter what size, with electric. There’s not much else there other than clean bath houses and laundry facilities, (Robin did 6 loads).

They are a full service boatyard and are helpful and friendly and allow do it yourselfers. We noticed some water in the fuel separator and decided to have the fuel “polished” while here. In Baltimore I had quotes of $400, here they ran the polisher for 3 hours and charged $200. Our wind vane was bent by birds at Bowleys and they have a “cherry picker” here with a 65’ reach and will replace it in 10 minutes. Alan is the yard foreman and is friendly and helpful. Apparently many ICW cruisers stop here for repair work.

Alan at Sailcraft Service

Interesting craft?

A cute little cottage

Weather is beautiful, 80 degrees and sunny. We may stay at Oriental Town Dock tonight to enjoy a little of the town. Most of the towns down here cater to cruisers and most have a free town dock where you can stay for a couple of days. Limited services, sometimes no electric or water but the price is right.

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Shrimp Trawlers in port

Sunset in Oriental